It is a good idea to keep the unit plugged into power when not in use, especially in colder climates where a discharged battery or batteries can be destroyed by freezing temperatures. However, that trade-off may be worth it if your camping needs require that extended battery life. Once we decided on a location for the new outlet, we masked off an area for the pull box that we needed to install. So as before, we need to run the generator or plug in to shore power to run the K-Cup machine, but we can do it without running an extension cord from the outlet over the bed to the galley. Also, bathroom devices like hair dryers and curling irons use a lot of electricity.
Seems the manufacturer of my coach was a bit stingy, and a bit wierd when locating outlets. Then put the box in place and secure to the wall with wood screws. Then you would use the appropriate wire size and breaker. These days, most folks I think cannot live without their personal electronics - even when camping. I have one outlet hidden in a cabinet, one under the kitchen cabinet, one in the bathroom, two on the pedestal bed in the bedroom, and one in the rear corner of the dinette.
A 30 amp cord has three prongs, and a 50 amp has four. They are all independent of the batteries. I found a nice little 5 cup drip coffeemaker which used just 650 watts so it worked just fine with the inverter. Slip the wire into the breaker box through an unused knock-out hole in its side close to an unused 30 amp breaker. I have a separate inverter switch located near the main panel. After all, I have a 2800 watt generator and none of my appliances are rated above 1450 watts. The correct manufacturer, size, and style of the required 30A, single pole breaker.
Then insert your cable and tighten the cable connector, again ensuring that it tightens down of the jacket of the cable and not on the exposed individual conductors. This is definately the tool for this kind of job. Check to make sure that all of the connection points are secure, nothing looks damaged or frayed, and everything is clean with no signs of corrosion. In my case, the outlet is live while on shore or genny and also when I run the inverter. Inspecting the Wirecon box connections. I did a lot of research on-line, checking manfacturer's websites, and found that only one was manufactured in brown - made by Bryant.
However, you want to keep safety in mind, especially when dealing with electricity. Here I found an example of some of the most shoddy manufacturer work to date on the coach. I found that I had to do each side at a time, and clamp down several times before everything snapped into place. Thinking about the cut means; is the outlet centered properly and in this case aligned and level with the existing outlet? However, using two 6 volt batteries wired together in a series circuit to essentially create a 12 volt battery is typically better than using a single 12 volt battery. Since I was going to wire into that outlet anyway, I could fix it as I did so. This is when you need to have the proper connection for full, or at least partial use of all the on-board conveniences. Secure the metal junction box to the wall again, using tools and materials appropriate to the substrate.
Generators are inconsiderate in a quiet campground and we don't like to disturb others. Are their any obstructions, such as stiffener boards on the back-side that are in the way? I found that newer Roadtreks had separate switches for the inverters. It is in red letters. The plywood will be screwed or nailed on to the wall studs so it can be removed where needed in order to run the cable through the walls to the panel location. Even the larger units will have the option to run on 30A where 50A is not available.
Also, my inverter made a little whirr which I found disturbing at night, so I wanted to turn that off but still leave all my alarms powered up. You need to think about making the cut into the panel - not just measure it. Unfortunately, I could not find a brown outlet. Watts, or overall power, is a product of current, or amps, and voltage. The tool I used was a Porter Cable Oscillating Multi-Tool, and it made a very nice, clean cut. You would then need the approved adapter to plug the unit in, and would have to disable the heavy loads by unplugging them or shutting off and labeling the breakers with a note that the electrical supply is not sufficient to run the heavy electrical loads.
This made it possible to turn on the Battery system including the charger to charge the batteries from shore power and generator, while leaving the Inverter off. Connect the red wire to one terminal on the outlet side of the breaker, and connect the black wire to the other terminal on the outlet side of the breaker. It is 110 ac 650 watt service. Additionally, know where the are in your motorhome. Connect the green or bare wire to the grounding block. Then check to see if the panel has the room to accommodate another circuit, and the ampacity to supply the new load. The new plug goes live at the same time the microwave does, with either the generator or shore power.