Sid Kansas 2008-12-04 true Reasonable price - great quality. I don't recall ever seeing a Butcher set like this before. I just think you'll get alot of bang for your buck with the cheap ones. I watched a 2008 episode of The Woodwright Shop earlier this week and Roy had some folks sawing veneer. Also, I took them out in the garage and realized I have no idea how to hold them on the stabilizer or basically, how to use them at all. They were shipped here without handles. The handles are very long, though, not heavy, but long.
Wilbur Pan recommends the Imai Japanese chisels on his very informative website, Giant Cypress. Unfortunately, some stubborn 'Crapsmen' in the past, have worn the handles down and even mashed up the metal sockets with constant hammering on the steel. Especially as My wife is much younger,and I don't know where she could get these oddball toolings if I am not able to carry on at some point. This is a particularly nice example for the the connoisseur. Is that a good brand? Now I wish I had bought more of these chisels, sadly the set has not been available for several years now. To this day ferules are a problem.
W1 and O1 are hardened at lower temperatures than the more exotic steels,and you don't need to protect them from the air. As long as they are high speed steel, they should work just fine for learning. All of them are little used with nice matching handles. Regards, Ray John I have a number of old Bucks Bros. It is a finger jointed box that seems to be an original chisel box but the interior fittings don't look factory to me.
Is anyone familiar with that brand? Great untouched surface and still very sharp. The hardwood handle has a leather cap to absorb mallet blows. They are all acid etched to highlight the metalwork. I don't recall him mentioning the base metal for the tools though. I've heard that the Blue Spruce and the Lie Nielsens are highly regarded. John, I've got an old '50's era I'd guess, Buck Bros socket butt chisel that was my Dad's, it has real good steel in it.
I have these and use them often. Once the bad steel was removed from the backs, the edge was now formed from good steel. They are less nicely finished, but still good metal, they all take and hold an edge very well. The butt chisel is trademarked on the back of the blade, while the gouges were only stamped on the handle, which I cut off for comfort. If you don't buy htese make sure that whatever you buy states High Speed Steel. They are as found with a nice light patina on the bare metal and nice handles. The person who gave them to me said that they were given to him by some one who baught out tools from school districts that were closing their shop departments.
Maybe you could test it and send it back with one you think is better. But none of that is difficult. Presumably to keep it from falling off as they are so prone to do. Clearly he was proud of this chisel. I bought several sets from three locations for comparison purposes.
One of the nicest mortising chisels that I have had in some time and by a great maker. A better way is to have an inert gas furnace to force out any air. When you get more confident sharpening and know your way around the lathe a little better you can regrind these to suit your needs as you grow. I don't know the differences,but,for example,Chinese high speed steel isn't the same as American made high speed steel. Had a whole big reply for this but it disappeared on me.
Sorbys have always been way too soft. Since I've been on a chisel quest lately, looking for the best dovetail chisels around, if you're looking for a good set I can recommend the recently arrived Ashley Iles butt chisels available at The Best Things. It's much easier and much more fun to learn the right way and not have to undo bad habits. It was the geometry that I had issue with. This also has given me the time to determine which gouges, skews, scrapers, etc. In my estimation, you've been handed a treasure as far as chisels go. The larger 6 sizes are super, really fine condition.